The day before I already had arranged with Pasqual, my friend from Brazil and New Zealand, Luís, Pasqual’s friend, an amazing person that received us in Bali as a long term friend even without knowing us, Steve, an OZ guy, who lives in Ubud – Bali, does yoga and is very excited about the wedding with his Japanese girlfriend who is waiting for a baby, and Tilo a German who already left Bali and is travelling for a long time, to go surfing in a secret spot in east of Bali leaving at 6 in the morning.
The promise were good waves and few people in the water, again I have to thank Louis for the tip. We agree on time and I came out of the inn and Pasqual on the same bike, he headed in the rump and I go find the rest of the staff at the home of Luís Get there and again we were very well received with a super breakfast. From there follow pro peak giving half hour of Sanur. We went to a desert beach of dark sand, with several coconut trees, two people in the water (as in the most famous points of Bali like Uluwtu you easily come to see 50 people), perfect waves breaking to right and left with 4 to 6 feet, the right longer and the left short but heavy, a beautiful blue sky, warm water, the majestic Agung on the background, the biggest volcano in Bali and Nusa Lebongan in front, a dream for any surfer.
I was a little rusty by the cold New Zealander winter, and started surfing carefully the smaller waves go into the rhythm, everything was going well, but after about 1 hour surfing a big one broke in front of me and snaped my board in 2 pieces, everything okay with me, but I was frustrated to break the board in the first day.
I left the water and I was watching the guys surfing. After 1 hour Pasqual left and lent me his surfboard and I surfed for another hour.
After the surf I left my board for repair with a Balinese fellow in Sanur, which charged Rp 200,000.00/USD 20 for the service, 10% of the price it would be in NZ. My intention was just fix it to sell, but the repair was so good that I ended up with the board and I am using every day so far.
After lunch we were in a warung (small restaurant), me, Cris, the Pasqual and Ale. It was such a buffet that began with a plate full of rice and you choose the complements. It’s super simple place, they didn’t speak English and our Bahasa Indonesia is very superficial we just pointed the food, some of them hard to imagine what it was but we could never ask, on average a dish plus Lemon costs RP 12,000.00 / USD 1.20. In the afternoon we were in the pool, relaxing and sun bathing
At night we have a special dinner at Massimo, an excellent Italian restaurant in Sanur. Arriving in front of the restaurant I realized I had forgotten the wallet in the homestay, I and Pasqual went back , each with their motorbike to get it. The path to the homestay is very narrow, a car wide, windy, and full holes in the asphalt and some parts with sand on it. We got there, I got my wallet, put the helmet on, and started on the bike, at first curve was a little girl coming on the opposite direction, and to give her more space on the curve I passed through a deep hole filled with water, I lost the balance a little, tried to accelerate to get the balance back but I ended up on a pocket of sand on the asphalt, the bike lost traction and in slow motion until it is tilting the only way out was to jump off the bike and dive into the asphalt, a bike in one side me in the other.
All the lights on the neighborhood turned on, I stand up, walked to the bike, fall on the floor, the girl who passed me came back, she asked if I was ok, I said “yes I’m OK” , them everyone left their houses and suddenly I was surrounded by people asking if I was good, in english and bahasa indonesia some wanted me to go to the hospital, Pasqual who was in front of me came back and the owner of the homestay came and took me away from the crowd, “Come with me,” going to homestay’s main room, he gave a look to the injuries and even feeling well was relieved when he said “don’t worry they are all superficial”, I was wearing shorts, jandals and a t-shirt, and injured the right foot, leg and elbow, “now you need to clean that to avoid an infection” he said. Pasqual who took me to the shower and gave me a sponge with soap, I also was very concerned with the risk of an infection, even more because we are in a tropical country and I have fallen in a very dusty and dirty asphalt, I turned on the shower, washed and rubbed hard all the injuries to take any and all dirt, we made the dressings, got the bike again, now with the side a little grated and returned to the restaurant, I came walking normally as if nothing had happened, “What were you guys doing huh?” asked the girls, we gave them any excuse to keep the good vibe for that special dinner , which was really delicious, beer, pizza and desert ~ 50.000/Usd Rp 5.00 per person.
The injuries were superficial but painful enough to keep me out of the water for 5 days, but right now I’m almost completely healed, just the foot still under special care, but I’m doing everything normally, surfing a lot by the way, what’s completely wrong, but how could I resist the bali’s wave perfection..